Plunging Breakers

Plunging breakers, desirable for surfers, occur on coastlines with a moderate slope gradient, as found in Hawaii and Southern California, and typically break on reefs and sandbars where the ocean floor rises. Plunging breakers form suddenly and decrease in velocity before breaking, causing the crest of the wave to refract, which appears as a curl. This creates a hollow area between the crest and the surface of the wave known amongst surfers as the "barrel." The curl of a plunging wave's crest moves forward, breaking downward with force. Plunging breakers happen as one row of waves and not as a continuous flow and are caused by swells that begin in deep water and reach shallow water.

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